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BLOUSE STITCHING AND MAKING - How to Take Measurements to prepare a blouse

The blouse of a saree can define and redefine your look and add to your elegance. The tightly fitted, short blouse can literally enhance your appearance and if correctly stitched will add to the grace of the sari.

Sari blouses come in various designs, patterns, colors and fabrics. One can make them from single cloth or using a combination of various cloths, sequins, beads, laces, etc. For a perfectly stitched blouse, accurate body measurements need to be taken. With a single mistake the entire getup of the sari can be ruined and one can end up looking shabby.

No matter how grand the anticipated and antiquated the saree may be, it is still incomplete without two essential parts i.e.
1) the innerskirt or the petticoat and
2) the blouse. The former being hidden under the saree, the latter makes a much bigger impact on the ethnic get-up equal to jewelry, make-up and hairstyles.

The blouse is an integral part of the embellishment and determines much of fashion and trend. The beauty of a saree is only enhanced when it is paired with a beautiful designed blouse piece. The designers focus equally in the making of the blouse as they do for saree. The importance of it is shown everyday on TV and internet in undeniably fashionable designs with a variety of neck designs, embroidery work and heavy embellishments. It gives a required edge to the elegance of the saree.

A single change - the style of the blouse can transform the look of the whole saree. Therefore it is wise to consider every detail required for its selection before buying it. Here are five tips on how to choose a matching blouse design and the design it holds to supplement and enhance the saree.

1. How to be Blouse-Fully Wise-

Women these days are getting highly inclined towards the mix and match fashion. They buy a simple saree with less detailing and pair it with a heavily embroidered blouse which transforms the look of the plain saree. The simplicity is replaced by extremely glamorous attire and can be easily qualified as a party look. All the difference made by a tiny piece of clothing. Bollywood has an intense love affair with this tiny piece. Actresses be it of 60's, 80's, 90's or of this century, the blouse design is an integral style quotient to maintain their glamour on screen. The power of the blouse is such that a perfectly tailored-stitched bodice can make the saree look resplendent and in the same way an ill stitched or mismatched piece can ruin the entire look, no matter how glamorous the saree may be.

2. The Neckline-

The neckline can frame the shoulders, neck and the face and change their apparent width, height and angularity. The neckline shape can accentuate your physical features elegantly.
  1. Round and square neck is the most regular shapes because it looks equally great with both taller and shorter women.
  2. Face with round curves is well framed by an angular (linear) neckline and collar.
  3. A short neck and face will appear lengthened by necklines with strong verticals like vertical lines or a ''V'' neckline.
  4. High necklines such as the jewel types balance long faces.
  5. Pear-shaped figures can be balanced by diverging or horizontal lines e.g. an off-shoulder or boat neckline.
  6. Big bust line should avoid wearing the V-necks and scoop necks as they emphasize the chest size. High necks with full sleeves work wonders.
  7. Smaller bust line should opt for V-necks and bulkier fabrics.
  8. Rectangular and oval necks suit women with short height as they enhance their personality by making their saree look more beautiful on them.
  9. Chinese collar became famous with our evergreen Rekha when she started donning this design for almost all her movies in 80's. This design became her trademark design which has maintained till date. It highlights long neck with exposed collar bone.
  10. In the same way high necks have been signature with Sridevi as she looks gorgeous in it. This blouse designs look great on women having long and thin neck, as it highlights their best features.
  11. The halter neck design always comes under high-fashion and it looks even more fashionable with backless design. It is very popular in Bollywood and is actually fashioned for net sarees and any kind of party wear sarees.
  12. Spaghetti strap neck- this is a risky style statement and is not preferred by many, but young ladies prefer this high fashion to maintain their fashion quotient even if they go traditional with ethnic wear. Such designs are supposed to be carried off with panache and not then it'll be a fashion-drab.

3. Sleeves-

The grace lies in the arm of a damsel. The design of the sleeves can be preferred the way you like but it is wiser if you know the do's and the don'ts. It is reckoned that taller women should avoid long sleeves and shorter women should avoid short sleeves. The sleeves are equally experimented as the necklines. The recent trends are the blouses with transparent full sleeves and backless blouse with 3/4th sleeve. From yesteryear actresses Sadhna and Asha Parekh to Sridevi and Deepika, every single actress has adored this style sleeves which enhances elegance rendering sophistication. The sleeves are actually made up of net or extremely sheer fabric. This design will go with any kind of saree from party wear to handcrafted. Exceptionally is the case that this style will look ravishing both for taller women and shorter women. It is a smart way of hiding flabby arms. If you want to state class with fashion then backless blouse with 3/4th sleeves is a genuine choice. Other than these are variety of sleeves like straps and strapless, one neck sided sleeves, sleeveless, puffs etc. having a lot of option is chaotic so you need to know what looks the best on you and opt for that style.

4. Fabrics

The blouse these days comes along with the saree as an extra piece to be sewn and fitted by the tailor. So naturally the blouse fabric is same as that of the saree. But some women choose not to sew the blouse using the fabric included with the saree. In that case, factors like height, complexion and figure should be considered. Identifying the fabric of the blouse is cracking the art of buying a saree blouse. Cotton is easy and regular; rubiya voile is yet another easy, regular and a standard blouse fabric. Other fabrics like silk, chiffon, net, satin, georgette and chikan fabrics etc are used in the making of the blouse. A new invention is a nice and comfortable elastic blouse that will fit all sizes. Comfort level matters a lot.

5. Color and other Miscellaneous-

The ultimate rule is appropriateness. The matching color with saree is a thumbs-up but it is not a trend setting fashion statement these days. Contrasting colors work wonders on the red carpet and we imitate the A-lists but it is to be kept in mind that highly contrasting colors do not do justice to tall women. Monochromatic colors look fabulous on petite women. The combination of wearing embroidered blue blouse with black or brown plain saree is the new contrast for show stoppers in Bollywood. The earth toned colored blouse suits the tan skin and bright colors compliments the fair. The new 'it' color is - Neon! The brighter than the brightest saturation is a new favorite for the fashionistas in Hollywood and young stylish women in India are also wearing neon colors infusing it in ethnic wears esp. saree and saree blouse. This amazing universal attire will enhance the elegance and beautify every woman. It suits everyone irrespective of color, weight, height, curves etc but all you have to do is get hold of the one that is made exclusively for you.



Items you Need to take the measurements :
Soft Measuring Tap

1 Paper + Pen

NOTE: Make sure you measure and write all measurements in single unit (inches/cms)






So lets start measuring:
  1. Shoulder to neck: Place the tape at the base of your neck, where the collarbone is and measure to your shoulder joint. This measurement will prevent the arms from sliding up or the shoulders from slipping down.
     
  2. Blouse Length: Start at the center of the shoulder and measure straight down to the point till where you want your blouse. While taking this measurement make sure that the tape passes over the center of the bust.
     
  3. Sleeve length: The sleeve length of a blouse is usually a matter of personal taste and comfort level. For those of you who are getting a sleeveless blouse, you can skip this step. Start measuring from the edge of the shoulder and measure down the arm until you have the desired sleeve length.
     
  4. Bust Measurement: Firstly make sure you are wearing the bra, which you will be wearing with the blouse, then start measuring around the fullest part of the bust and measure all the way around the chest and back.
     
  5. Bottom of blouse measurement: Measure the part above the waist below the bust, where you want the blouse to end. Measure all the way around, to get the correct cup measurement.
     
  6. Waist Measurement: Measure your waist, if you are getting a long blouse stitched.
     
  7. Front & Back Neck Depth: To measure the depth of the front & back you need to measure diagonally.
     
  8. For the neck, start from the top of the shoulder, that is your neck joint, and measure till your cleavage, to the point where you want your blouse neck to end.
     
  9. For the back, measure from the neck joint to the center of your back and choose how deep you would like the back of the blouse to be.
     
  10. Armhole Measurement: While keeping your arms relaxed and by your side, start at the top of the shoulder in line with your armpit and take the circumference of the arm.
     
  11. Armpit Measurement: Wrap the measuring tape around the armpit and over the shoulder joint tightly. Add 1-2 centimeters to the measurement for comfortable movement.
     
  12. Arm Measurement: Wrap and measure the around the fullest part of your bicep.
     
  13. Shoulder: Measure in a straight line from the end of the right shoulder to the end of the left shoulder.
     

 

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